Dec 2016 - KL to Boten - Golden Triangle - Mae Hong Son 1,864 Corners - Day 4

Tuesday - Total distance 572 km 

Chiang Khong (KM0 / 1020) - Chiang Khong Immigration (1356) - Luang Namtha (3) - Boten (13) - Huay Xai - Chiang Rai 1020 / 1174 / 1152

The morning we had our breakfast at the hotel we went ahead to the border. The border was quiet, there was no crowd, no queue. Only a tour bus and they were leaving when we got there. At the Thai border, we were asked to submit our papers which includes the TM2 document, copy of our passport, driver's license and also our "green card" or proof of ownership of our bikes.  

 Once that was done, we were asked to pay the standard 500 baht for the police "escort" which I find it was just another way for them to make a quick buck from us.   

                                            

                                            

Once we arrive at the Lao border, more baht was asked for the customs officer to fill up forms and process our documents. It took more than hour for us to cross a border that has no queue and we paid about 300 baht to get our passport stamped. 

After a frustrating morning of waiting and paying unnecessarily to these so called customs officers we finally made it over to Huay Xai. It was the first experience for me to ride on the right side of the road. 

  

First pub I see at Lao. We borrowed the use of its toilet. The establishment was out of electricity at the time. 

A familiar sight from its Thai counterpart.  

Steven was being reliable here. He has been patience until today he broke out to me and ask for breaks between refueling.

Lots of these black piggies running around.

Hours later we arrive at Pangsai.

The cars / pick ups here drive so fast that I find it difficult to keep up with them.

There are no highway rest stop. Steven said he saw a lady stopped her car and defecate by the road side with 2 doors open.

Some kids at Lao were very shy, but some were welcoming.

You see kids walking by the shoulder of the road.

The villagers look like they were preparing dinner by the road.

Just minites before we arrive at the China border, we had a toilet break.

The lady was in traditional costume and she has a very shy daughter. The lady could speak fluent Mandarin here.

We finally arrived at our destination. Over that golden arch is China.

This guys has been keeping up with me all the way from KL. Finally he earned his bragging rights.

I am not a fan of stickers but looks like many thinks otherwise. Route 13 to China.

This mile marker is where most 2 week traveler would like to stop by for pictures as a sign of achievement. Maybe because it says "China".

On the way back to the border, upon request by Steven to stop by this stall by the road side. Nearby Pangsai.
                                        
                                   
This young man who was in his school uniform seemingly took interest in our bikes. I used body language to explain to him what's the difference between a parallel twin and an in line four engine. Notably the young man likes the sound of the latter. I gave this new friend of mine an emblem of a Malaysian flag which I pin in on my jacket, something to remember me by. Hopefully I visit Pangsai again and he would still recognize me.
                                      
He even showed me his english text book after I asked him whether he learn the language.

The same pub we passed by in the morning. I just gotta stop to have a Beerlao. 

It took us another few hours to get to Chiang Rai after that. It was a long riding day indeed and I look forward to our next destination, Mae Hong Son. I had regretted that I did not plan enough time for Lao. This country fascinates me with its history and its people really compelled me to visit them again. Perhaps soon enough I may bring my Versys girl up here again if she is up for it.

Dec 2016 - KL to Boten - Golden Triangle - Mae Hong Son 1,864 Corners - Day 3

Monday - Total distance 324 KM
Chiang Mai (KM0/R118) - Singha Park (R1211) - Chiang Rai (R1) - Sob Ruak (R1216/1290) - Chiang Khong (KM 324 KM R1290)

The morning after a very rough previous day I woke up and was looking for coffee. Steven was still asleep and I wonder whether I was awaken by the sound of his deep sleep or was it the traffic noise from the window I deliberately left opened for the cigarette smoke.

I remembered that at this point I still had 3 packs of my Sempoerna and it was around eight in the morning.

I took a quick shower and went downstairs, started the bike and went looking for coffee. I thought of bringing Steven to the temple later to pray for good and safe riding days ahead after breakfast at the market. I was a little hungry so I went to McDonald's where I knew they serve good coffee.

McDonalds opposite Taphae gate was not crowded in the morning. I went in and ordered coffee from a pleasant looking waitress who spoke decent English. Naturally this would be the place where they usually do. I had my hot coffee outside, sitting in the cool December breeze with a seemingly drunk farang sleeping at the next table.

By the time I finish my coffee it was close to 10 am and I head back to the hotel to find Steven already washed up and sitting in bed. I got him ready for breakfast and ask him to take me pillion on his bike. I didn't notice his uneasiness of not gearing up and riding in town.

Only after breakfast at the market I discovered that Wat Chediluang has started collecting entrance fee.

Wat Chediluang looks as stunning as ever. I pray for safe ride and my future return to visit.

After the visit to the temple, we then dropped by at the train station. The Chiang Mai station is the last stop for northbound line.

I dropped by the station to ask about the train schedule and bought our tickets at the advise of one of the friendly ladies. She said to be there by noon for the 5 pm train which heads to Bangkok.The cost of the sleeper upper deck from Chiang Mai to Bangkok was 771 baht, arriving 6.15 am the next day. We would need to arrive earlier for the workers to load the bike earlier and to be sure that there are enough space in the train for both our bikes. With a sigh of relief that we more or less confirmed our tickets later on, we went back to the hotel and geared up.

After gearing up, we head towards Singha Park via route 118 northbound. The total distance from the hotel to Singha Park was about 3 hours or about 180 km. We followed route 118 until the final half hour we got off the highway and got on route 1211.

On the way to Singha park we stopped by this cafe that has a room full of exotic paintings.

Notice that other smaller paintings are strategically placed for purpose of censorship.

After the coffee stop, we followed the 118, then the 1211. More info about Singha park could be found here. We continue the ride and headed towards our next stop, Golden Triangle park at Chiang Saen.

By the time we got to Golden Triangle Park it was already nearly 5 pm local time. We took a break and I get the chance to chat with this Thai lady who could speak fluent Chinese.

After the break we changed our visor to clear ones as it was getting dark. We took the 1290 towards Chiang Khong and decided to spend the night there.

The Nam Khong Riverside turned out to be a clean and value for money hotel. I would definitely recommend it.

The morning sun greeting from the land of a million elephant overseeing the mighty Mekong.

Restaurant Pedaslah, Bukit Jelutong

Restaurant Pedaslah, Bukit Jelutong

Jan 2017 

It was my third visit to this restaurant and I have ordered the same item which I ordered before, the beef soup noodle. The item cost RM 11.00 and I really like the taste. The restaurant looks new and nicely renovated. Not much of a crowd but I really hope that will continue to operate as I appreciate the quietness for my lunch break. The location is a bit odd but if you are sick and tired of the same food and parking hassle at Glenmarie, you would probably like this place. 

They charge for service here 10%. 

Ratings

Accessibility: 4/5 

Environment: 4.5/5 (AC, clean and neat, even the toilet works)

Food taste: 4/5

Economy: 3/5 (portion was huge but slightly pricey)

Overall: 4/5

Restaurant 126 Bittergourd Noodle, Taman Bukit Mayang Emas - Deluxe Curry Mee

Restaurant 126 Bittergourd Noodle, Taman Bukit Mayang Emas 

My regular place for breakfast. Today parking was a hassle as I parked about 100 meters away even though it was only about 10 am in the morning. Maybe it is due to CNY coming soon and lots of people are out and about. I notice that the neighborhood was also more crowded than usual. 

I tried out their new menu item, the "DELUXE Curry Mee". Looks quite nice on the picture, but turned out to be just so so. Not so deluxe after all and has no kick in their curry. The price was RM 10, which is slightly higher to other menu items, I guess is due to the additional ingredients in the dish. I would probably prefer their normal menu item which are the clear soup noodle. I am rating them 3 as no coffee or even nescafe was available today. What a shame. 

Ratings: 

Accessibility: 4/5  

Environment: 3/5 

Food taste: 3/5 (for this dish)

Economy 3/5 

Overall: 3/5  

Location

Restoran Kopitiam Setia Alam

Restoran Kopitiam Setia Alam
12th Jan 2017

Lunch

Coming here is quite an regular affair for me. One of the dish that I would order usually is from this stall "Pork Meat Rice, Hotpot" stall. They have some really radical space-age-transparent-laser-beam looking chopsticks.

Ratings
Accessibility: 4/5 (outdoor coupon parking)
Environment: 3/5 (No AC but cleanliness is acceptable for me)
Food taste: 3/5
Economy: 4/5 (RM 6.50 for a bowl of noodles and another bowl of chitering)
Overall: 3.5/5

Dec 2016 - KL to Boten - Golden Triangle - Mae Hong Son 1,864 Corners - Day 2

Day 2 Summary

Sunday - Total distance 1,210 KM
Chumphon (Refuel KM0/R41) - Prachuap Kiri Khan (Refuel KM249/R41/4) - Lunch break at Ratchaburi - Suphan Buri (Refuel K243 R4/321) - Nakhon Sawan (Refuel KM236 R321/340/1) - Thoen [town between Tak & Lampang] (Refuel KM 252 R1) - Chiang Mai (KM 230 R1/11)

After breakfast at the Chumphon Garden hotel, we geared up and went to the nearby PTT to fuel up both my gas tank and my hydration pack. It was a relaxing ride that morning after a good night's rest. I remember I slept quite well. We were lucky to get a good room on our first night. We emptied our first tank after about 3 hours at Prachuap Khiri Khan.

After my first coffee of the day at PTT Amazon cafe at PKK, I wanted to see where was the Hua Hin train station, we went to Hua Hin town and the lady at the counter told me only bikes below 120cc were allowed to be load and unload here (so much about the idea of training down here). Then from Cha Am we proceed to Ratchaburi (the supposing first day destination). Lunch location was just off the R4 highway here. It was a new, clean restaurant serving local spicy pork and noodle soup with rice. Checking google map location shows that they serve seafood as well. That made sense as the ocean was not far away. 

The target was set for the day during lunch that Steven insist that we could make it to Chuang Rai. My dilemma then was that I had no intention or any interest to stop for the second night anywhere between Ratchaburi & Chiang Mai. The original plan was to ride there on the second day from Ratchaburi via the 11, passing Phitsanulok & Uttradit. As we were trailing, I suggested to him that maybe we could head toward Chiang Mai and do MHS instead before heading to Boten. Steven immediately shot down the idea and he looked determined to hit Boten first. Only couple of days later on then I realize he has not much interest of doing MHS.

Since we were already backed up on our schedule, Steven suggested to ride at night. Chiang Mai was another option for me at the time as it was at least an hour before Chiang Rai. I decided then to reroute to Chiang Mai via Suphan Buri, Uthai Thani, Nakhon Sawan, Kampaeng Phet & Tak. Steven is under the impression that google map's ETA was just an "indication" and we would be arriving much earlier as we were on motorcycle.

By the time we reach Tak it was already 11.30 pm. I would really flush his motorbike-would-get-there-earlier theory down the toilet. We rode for another 2 hours to reach Chiang Mai in the cold dark night passing stretches of mountain roads and national parks on the 1.

It was a long ride that day as we only arrived Chiang Mai town at nearly 2 am in the morning. We went straight to a restaurant outside the old town to have our dinner. It took a long time to get there but I was pretty content.

It was my first riding experience riding in the dark. It was risky and dangerous.

After dinner, I lead Steven straight to the hotel at B2 Thippanate which was about 20 minutes away. Once we got there only get to know that the hotel was full and no more room left. It was my third time visiting this budget hotel but unfortunately we did not get a room there that night. I took out my phone and start searching for available hotels around. It was not a big problem as we were not picky but it was the fatigue that got to me.

After attempts of checking hotels nearby, finally I found one at the northwest of the gate, next to the Ram Hospital. The room at Tokyo Vender Hotel was cheap at only 550 baht and it has its reasons why. It was the one of the worse so called hotels I ever stayed in. I wouldn't recommend to stay here unless you are wanted by the police or you were hiding from the mafias for running away their drugs. The room was small and dirty, the bathroom and dark, and weird sounds were coming from everywhere. The bathroom ceiling looks like going to fall into pieces and dropping on my head when I was showering. I lit up a cigarette and told Steven that we are just roughing it out tonight and I promise him tomorrow we will stay in a nicer hotel.

After shower I did my laundry and went to bed.

U Thong, Suphan Buri.

  

Took a break at Uthai Thani where we had a twiggie each which I bought the morning before. We put on our clear helmet visor here to start riding after sunset. There was still another 450 km to go from here.  

The restaurant which was still open 2 AM as we arrived Chiang Mai. Picture from Google street view. 

Dec 2016 - KL to Boten - Golden Triangle - Mae Hong Son 1,864 Corners - Day 1

I have finally made it to the trip and came back in one piece. Total mileage clocked was 5,167 km in 8 days.

Day 1 Summary

Sat - Total distance 995 KM
RV RnR Sg Buloh at NSE at 3.30 am
KL (Refuel KM0/E1) - Gunung Semanggol (Refuel KM264/E1) - Changlun (Refuel KM186) - Hatyai (4) - Thung Song (Refuel KM238/4 & 41) - Chumphon (Refuel KM310/4)

Steven actually made it on day 1 at RV 3.30 am, honestly I didnt expect him to actually turn up for this trip.

After we fueled up at Sg Buloh then off we went. Our first check point was Gunung Semanggol RNR which was about 260 KM away where we would be fueling up. I always remembered this rest stop as the one just opposite Bukit Merah Laketown Resort which is about half an hour from Penang bridge. During the stop I had some cold nescafe coffee in a can and I was good to go again.

The weather was fine that morning and I did not feel that cold riding early that morning as my big ass windshield blocked most of the cold wind off my chest. There were some slight drizzle that I wouldn't call it rain on the way to G. Semanggol. We arrived Changlun soon enough and once we reach the usual coffee shop to have breakfast, it hit me. There were thousands of people in the queue awaiting to cross the border that morning.

I have never seen such a big crowd at the BKH check point before, with the amount of cars, coaches, trucks, bikes that were going through and 100 meter long queues, I did not anticipate this crowd. With the earlier delay at the coffee shop that took more than an hour to prepare our paperwork/insurance we were already 1 hour behind schedule. At the end, we paid a tout (abang ulat) RM 20 per person to cut queue but we still have to get our bike's paperwork done.

By the time we were on Thailand soil, it was already 10.30 am (MY). There was a long way ahead of us to head to Ratchaburi, which was the original plan. I've started to think that it would be a challenge to get there within the day.

It was nice riding in Thailand again, with a familiar feeling. The smell of rotten rubber in the south, the reddish dust, the unexpected u turns by the local pick ups, and the ever familiar taste of Amazon coffee at PTT gas stations. After refueling at Thung Song, we reached Chumphon district at about 6 pm (MY). I made the decision to stop here for the night as it was already a 15 hours day for us. After searching online for a couple of minutes for hotel, we headed for a decent looking one about 20 mins away. It was at Chumpon town which I have never visited and I was excited.

Steven cooling down his ride at Chumphon stop over before we ride in. I'd say this was probably the only naked XJ6 with a wind shield that big I have ever seen. 

The view from the hotel room. I sent this picture with my hand sign to my wife as proof of safe arrival.

View of the Chumphon Garden Hotel after we got cleaned up. The hotel has a big open area for parking and we left our bikes just by the main entrance. The room was 800 baht with breakfast if I remembered correctly. The room was not too bad, clean and quiet.

After asking directions from the hotel reception on where to get dinner, we decided to go there by foot.

Some local businesses.

Chumpon is a lonely quiet town. Didn't even see a massage place. This place will definitely grow on me.

We decided to have dinner at this small little restaurant called Mao Hoi by the end of the row, opposite the train station. Funny the name of the restaurant means closed in my dialect.

Walk down the row then you'd see peddlers selling all sorts of stuffs.

Behind the stalls was the train station. Location here.

Street food if you fancy.

Local market selling the latest fashion.

This furry friend was doing some shopping as well.

Seafood by the street.

My regular drink when I am in town, Singha beer, locally known as beersing. Steven only looking at me in awe as I drank 3 of these on my first night. It's always been beersing for me, no Chang, no Leo, no Heineken.

The cute looking waitress walked over and ask to take a picture with me. I wonder whether it is because I finished 3 bottles at one go.

The first day milestone was as per the below. We have a long way ahead of us on the next day if we were to arrive Chiang Mai on the second day. But we gotta remember not to push it too much, safety is still priority.

We went back to the hotel after dinner and get some rest to get ready for tomorrow.